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Bunnahabhain
 scrapes in
 decent
 good
 excellent
 sublime
Bunnahabhain, 12-Year-Old (Scotland) 
Bunnahabhain is the most remote distillery on Islay, and is renowned for producing one of the island’s less heavily peated whiskies. Production commended in 1883, and since 2003 Bunnahabhain has belonged to Burn Stewart Distilleries, who have extended the whisky’s range. However, the principal expression remains this 12-year-old.
Fresh on the nose, with light peat and discreet smoke. More overt peat on the nutty and fruity palate, but still restrained for an Islay. The finish is full-bodied and lingering, with a hint of vanilla and some smoke.
40.0% ABV, 70, £22.95, widely available. |  |
Bunnahabhain, 18-Year-Old (Scotland)
Lacking the big, brash ‘iodine and peat smoke’ credentials of its southern Islay neighbours, Bunnahabhain has been readily available as a 12-year-old expression for many years, yet has never really gained the recognition it deserves. Under the ownership of Edrington it was forced to play third fiddle to The Macallan and Highland Park, but now, in the hands of Burn Stewart, the 12-year-old has been joined by 18 and 25-year-old expressions. The 18-year-old is limited to 1,500 bottles in the first release, and presents a nose of toffee, marshmallow and spices. It is comparatively sweet, with stewed fruit. On the palate it offers something of a contrast to olfactory expectations, being nutty, dry and initially quite hot, with a touch of pepper. Caramelised fruits segue into a long finish of baked banana. 43.0% ABV, 70cl, £48.95, specialist whisky merchants.  |  |
Bunnahabhain, 25-Year-Old (Scotland)
The 25-year-old’s initial release runs to just 400 bottles, but it is three times the price of its younger sibling. It comes in a smoked oak glass bottle, its labelling is on aged parchment, and it is presented in an Alder wooden box lined with Hessian and closed with solid brass fittings. Sweet and floral on the nose, with developing spices, the palate is Sherried and elegant, with baked apple. The Sherry lingers and dries in the long, pleasing finish. 43.0% ABV, 70cl, £155.95, selected whisky specialists. |  |
Bunnahabhain, Darach Ur (Scotland)
Darach Ur is Gaelic for ‘new oak,’ and this latest global travel retail exclusive release from the Islay distillery of Bunnahabhain contains whiskies up to 20 years of age, all matured in new oak barrels, sourced from a family-run cooperage in Bardstown, Kentucky.
According to Bunnahabhain, “This is the first time they have been used for maturing single malt Scotch whisky. The first, small batch of this exclusive Bunnahabhain single malt, un-chill-filtered, natural in colour and of a higher strength, retains the fresh sweetness of the oak from barrel to bottle.”
The nose offers fresh oak, spice and pine nuts, while the palate displays citrus fruit, spicy vanilla, walnuts, cloves and cinnamon. The medium-length finish is gingery and drying.
46.3% ABV, 100cl, 48 Euros, Duty Free & Travel Retail. |  |
Bunnahabhain, Manzanilla Sherry Wood Finish (Scotland)
The latest limited edition release in the Bunnahabhain range of Islay malts is a 16-year old. According to its producers, “Via the Spanish sea estuary of the Guadalquivir River and the port of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, this selected spirit languished in traditional oak at the Bunnahabhain Distillery for twelve long years before being transferred into Manzanilla Sherry casks for four more. This double maturation technique creates a fascinating variation to the famous Bunnahabhain gentle taste; the Manzanilla Sherry casks from Spanish bodegas make for a beguiling complement to the crisp, fresh influence of the bracing Islay air.”
Fragrant Sherry and leather on the nose are countered by gentle brine and peanut notes. Firm-bodied, dry and peppery on the palate, with bitter chocolate and liquorice sticks. The finish comprises dry oak and a sprinkle of salt.
A surprisingly different expression of one of Islays most underrated drams. Moreish is the word!
3,792 bottles from five casks. 53.2% ABV, 70cl, £70.00, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
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